Sara did this makeup on model Lia with playful blue lines for Lp - magazine . Photo: Anja Poulsen for L' Oréal Paris

Makeup trends at Oslo and New York fashion week

Be inspired by the beautytrends for next year with this brief backstage sneek peek from the fashion weeks in New York and Oslo.

For it is in the back the magic occurs. For hours before a show troops of people comes to the assigned location one by one. Models, makeup artists, hairdressers, nail designers, audio and technicians, and eventually the designer. It may be very early in the morning with hot coffee in one hand, and with undone hair and unvarnished faces, the models sit down on cold plastic chairs. Had you met one of them on the street, it would perhaps have been the silhouette and the exhausted motorcycle boots that revealed that they were models. The tired and weary face that probably have been to a dozen shows and as many parties that week actually needs all the help she can get. As the hours go by, and hairdressers and makeup artists get their work done, constructed the faces according to etiquette. Literally. Makeup artists are artists. They paint their works on countless faces every season, and the catwalk is the gallery and we are the public. All of them working together to realize the designer’s vision for the season.

So when one is lucky enough to get a sneak peek behind the scenes it’s like watching artists at work in his studio. Experiencing the process  in the making. What colors are selected and mixed together? How do they get to brighten up a tired face? This is where the hard work takes place, without any hint of glamor. It is here eyeliner gets defined its width, and blue color seasonal shade. Because of a tight timeschedule models are lamed and pulled, and it can stand up to three hairdressers around one person to be finished in time. They are like finely tuned musicians in a philharmonic interaction. Everyone has their role and executes it with precision and professionalism. It is in this cramped, hot and chaotic space that trends becomes a whole.

I’ve talked with two of Norway’s leading makeup-artists about makeup trends they have created for next fall. Sara Rostrup is the official makeup artist for L’Oreal Paris and is responsible for the makeuplooks under Oslo Runway, while Marthe Hesvik Norheim’s official makeup artist for Maybelline New York recently came home from the big city after doing makeup for many of the big shows during fashion week.

Sara Rostrup

Sara

 

What are the two biggest makeup trends right now?

— It has been a long time since we’ve seen so much color on the catwalk. People have become more courageous after many years with very neutral look, while it is very up to date and modern, typically where the color is a little by itself as focus to an otherwise neutral makeup. The second trend is skin. Everyone wants nice skin and everyone will look fresh. Dewy skin for the win!

What is the most trendy lipstick color?

— I think we see it all right now. It’s really a focus on the individual and you can show off your unique style, ranging from red to berry colors to completely transparent gloss. But I think we have never seen so much matte lips right now. Both on the catwalk but also among most people on the streets.

Backstage at Oslo Runway FW 2016, Oslo. Photo: Mari Torvanger Knap
Backstage at Oslo Runway FW 2016, Oslo. Photo: Mari Torvanger Knap

How will you describe the look for the eyes?

— Go for a nice color. For example, a blue eyeliner over the top lashes and lots of mascara. Choose a waterproof mascara, so it stays all day. You will surprise many and most certainly get compliments.

What color should the nails have?

— After many years of extremely strong focus on nail trends, people become very used to shift frequently between lacquers. I would even go for pastels, but both nude and bordeaux keeps moving forward.

Do you like best to make people look natural or more extreme?

— I prefer the natural style. Of course it might be fun to exaggerate once in a while, but I like best to accentuate the finest traits in a face and make the skin fresh and beautiful.

What are you most proud of so far in your career?

— I am very proud to be a L’Oréal Paris makeup artist in Norway! It is the world’s largest makeup company that has incredibly good and innovative products. It’s kind of fun every time they come with new products. They also have the best models and is now also the main sponsor of Paris Fashion Week – I hope I can be a part of the team and get to do lots of activities and events in Norway wich can inspire both consumers and the more professional in the industry.

If you can choose freely who would you like to do makeup on and which show would you want it to be?

— I think I must say Lara Stone. She is incredibly beautiful with her distinguishing traits that just makes her even more special. Her cheekbones is a killer!

What is the funniest thing about being a makeup artist? Show or shoot?

— The atmosphere backstage before shows are amazing. Usually one works alone as a makeup artist, so to talk and exchange little tips and tricks with others in the same job is always fun. And it’s really fun creating a look that other makeup-artists will redo after- it is teamwork, and everyone is helping each other. There is a real energy boost in that.

Sara did this makeup on model Lia with playful blue lines for Lp - magazine . Photo: Anja Poulsen for L' Oréal Paris
Sara did this makeup on model Lia with playful blue lines for Lp – magazine . Photo: Anja Poulsen for L’ Oréal Paris

Marthe Hesvik Norheim

MNY_FW_Sep15_Khan_0288

 

What are the two biggest makeup trends right now?

— If I have to choose only two, I will first and foremost mention strobing, which is really just adding a highlighter, preferably in cream form, at the points we want to emphasize in the face as the top of the cheekbones, the corners of the eyes, the nose bone and cupid’s bow etc. in many of the shows we spent large amounts of highlighter and pass on to dazzle it into the skin so the skin almost looked wet. One can also see that many cosmetic manufacturers have made strobe sticks, like a creamy highlighter in a stick form that makes the highlighting job much easier. I think this is an incredibly fresh trend! As trend number two I will mention blush. The world is tired of brown strokes in the face and I noticed during fashion week that contouring is almost completely out in the same way as so called instagram -eyebrows. We allow only slight contour to create the shape of your face but leave the color in your cheeks with pink or red blush. Bronzing powder was non-existent. At the shows there were many inspired by the painted ladies, old paintings from the 1800’s with long round eyebrows, red cheeks and lips. We put a lot of cream textures to get the painterly expression, and gave blush focus on the cheeks. This is not the biggest trend in the street yet, but let’s all pray a silent prayer that a fresh blush will take its rightful place in the faces this spring.

What is the most trendy lipstick color?

— The hottest now is a pretty raw look, so a transparent lip balm brings you far towards the goal. Should you go with lipstick you should go for a brownish-red or berry color hue.

How will your eyes look?

— In many of the shows we used browgel as cream shadows. These are the perfect taupe color which is very hot right now. Add shadow with a large soft brush, so that the color just swept gently and creates a soft shape. It’s also really nice to add a bit of cream highlighter to your eyelid and corner of your eye for an alert and fresh look. Combine this with gorgeous lashes, either with a small coat of mascara or create bulky flicks á la Jason Wu if you’re more of the courageous type. If you like a stronger expression of the eyes or going to a party, then eyeliners in all possible forms works very good. We used a blue eyeliner on the entire eye on Anna K’s show, and a black liner with a smaller silver liner inside at Marissa Webbs. The eyelinertrend was pulled to extreme lines by Marc Jacobs, so here you can get inspiration from all the different shows and playing with trends to create a very special look for yourself.

Bacstage at Jason Wu FW 2016, New York. Photo: Maybelline New York.
Bacstage at Jason Wu FW 2016, New York. Photo: Maybelline New York.

What color should the nails have?

— We saw an incredible number of creative nails, and on several of the shows the colors switched from model to model. The most trendy look is still a leak nude color that suits your skin tone and creates an impression of elongated fingers.

Do you like best to make people look natural or more extreme?

— It depends on my mood, but right now I’m into natural expressions and just focusing on tiny details that make the expression unique. My absolute favorite this season was Jason Wu where we should retain a little dark color under the eyes, exclude the foundation and rather work with light brown color (taupe) for contouring, lots of highlight and finishing by with creating some fantastic flicks that required an incredible amount of mascara and patience. The reason I like working with the natural look is probably because of the trends right now, but also I like to work in a clean way. I like to give one thing in the face more attention, as in Jason Wu, a fresh lip or fuller brows. And I like to create contrasts with various textures instead of large items. An all natural makeup with lip gloss on your eyelids for example. I love things like that!

What are you most proud of so far in your career?

— It’s hard to put your finger on, but I’m very proud that I can make a living of beeing a makeup artist. I am proud to have worked three seasons under NYFW and I am wanted in more and bigger shows for every season. I’m probably most proud of beeing a member of the Maybelline family aligned with makeup artists I look up to and model Gigi Hadid. It’s a bit strange really…

If you can choose freely who would you like to do makeup on and which show would you want it to be?   — Maartje Verhoef for Chloé and Saint Laurent. I love her! In New York, I dream about doing Wang, Hilfiger and DKNY shows.

What is the funniest thing about being a makeup artist? Show or shoot?

— Both! Show or shoot can not be compared. I love makeup for photography, it has always been my dream to become a makeup artist, but at the same time there is nothing that can be compared with the rush you get from the chaos backstage. The great thing with being a makeup artist is you meet an incredible number of inspiring and exciting people, you can always evolve for the better, and that no day is like another. One has a constant feeling of being creative and creating. That means a lot to me.

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Backstage at DKNY FW 2016, New York. Photo: Maybelline New York.